Thanks for sharing your model - I never tire of seeing them. A few comments: I presume that you used the special colour arrangement in Stella ( Color/Special Color Arrangement/Icosahedral1 ) ? Sadly Rob can't spell colour, or maybe there's a shortage of U's down under ? (certainly no shortage of ewe...

Welcome to the stella fan-club ! I'm sure stella will give you hours of fun and I look forward to seeing some of your models. It was interesting to read how you got into the subject. I myself saw some models at a museum around 1970 and it was love at first sight. I can still picture some of the mode...

I'd like a favourites list (like mo stella). I don't use this feature much in other apps, but would find it handy when going on a magical mystery tour inside stella.

Pete K

Looks like its that sort of day. I cant see all of my response, so here it is in chunks: Just a stab in the dark - maybe its the printer driver ? If you have a different printer, you could try printing it on that. Failing that, perhaps you could try something like the MS XPS Document Writer, if that...

Just a stab in the dark - maybe its the printer driver ? If you have a different printer, you could try printing it on that. Failing that, perhaps you could try something like the MS XPS Document Writer, if that is available on your system. If it is, then when you print the net, click on the printer...

Hi Phillip,

In the stretch (Non-uniform Scale) dialog box, I just selected the "Scale by" option and changed the value from 1 to 2. That increased the height of the triangular faces, leaving the base unchanged.

Pete K

I would be nervous about using hinges if only because in time the cement would cause the card that I use to distort. I only use balsa cement at the tips of the vertices - to hold the pins in place. Elsewhere I use UHU gel. When attaching the final piece of a model (or section) in many models, you h...

On the matter of the hinges, I myself was surprised at how well it worked; just be sure to score the hinge only lightly. For similar situations in the past, I have used strips of card that stick at two or more sides of the opening (almost forming a base for the final piece to attach to), but you nee...

The answer is that only the first star is built completely - with five projecting pins. The second star can be built almost completely, but the last arm of the star must be assembled as described in my previous post, because the final vertex has to wrap around the projecting pin of the first star. A...

Ho ho, I should have guessed that you would ask about that. I nearly explained how, but I thought my post might time-out if I took any longer. I used a variation on a technique that I'm sure we have all used before, but it was so effective that I intended to make it the subject of a separate posting...

This might help: http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m629/polypete/Polyhedra/MW63Diagram_zpsa066e6ed.jpg [/URL][/img] Top image shows the two faces of the front of one star arm, plus a "dart". I've drawn lines to show the tabs. Middle image shows the two faces cemented together with a pin sitting in...

Rob, In this model, we are lucky, because the pins just join TWO sections, not more. Of course, they sit along the fold between each pair of triangles that constitute a star arm (the pairs of triangles that are on the outside). So the pins join two parts of the large pentagonal faces. UHU hart balsa...

Thanks, Ulrich - and you were right about the cat!
Pete K

Looks like I messed up there. Lets try again:

It is 10 months since I first opened this topic, and after a couple of false starts and long periods "in the wilderness", I finally have something to show: <a href="http://s1135.photobucket.com/user/polypete/media/Polyhedra/MW63small_zps2729f1f9.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1135.photo...